Marey 10L Indoor Natural Gas Tankless Water Heater
Buy this Leading and Reliable Indoor NG Tankless Water Heater: Marey 10L
Install it anywhere, because you don't need an electrical connection. The ignition is battery-powered. Popular uses are for RV, food trucks, remote cabin, pool and poolhouse shower, barn, dog kennel, small cottage in the country.
This on-demand hot water heater is so small, it can fit in a suitcase: It is less than two feet tall. So, you can install it just about anywhere. You will save a lot of space compared to a tank water heater.
Because it is tankless, the 10L will heat an unlimited volume of water. No more running out of hot water on a cold day.
Since the 10L starts heating water when you turn on the hot water faucet, it uses energy only when you use it.
• Optional digital panel display shows output temperature
Temperature Rise Table
In some climates, users of the 10L use the "Highest" setting for Winter and the "Lowest" setting for summer.
Frequently Asked Question ("FAQ")
Q1: Is there a max water temperature at the inlet connection? Would like a backup for solar water storage.
A1: There is no maximum incoming water temperature for the 10L, above which the heater will not fire. However, Marey recommends that the incoming water temperature not exceed 120°F, since such temperatures could damage the rubber diaphragm.
Venting Guide for Marey Heaters
This is not a comprehensive, complete manual. Consult a licensed HVAC professional to install your tankless heater. Find a professional here.
Selecting the correct vent type: Stainless or galvanized?
The condensation of a tankless water heater is slightly more acidic and thus corrosive than a standard water heater's condensation. That is why many building codes in North America require Type III stainless steel, such as Z-Vent shown in the blue Related Gadgets tab above, for venting natural gas and propane tankless hot water heaters. It will never corrode or rust.
Alternatively, some building codes in North America allow for B-vent to be used. B-vent is double walled galvanized vent pipe made for standard water heaters and stove vent pipe. Unfortunately, the less expensive B-vent material will eventually corrode. This would allow dangerous fumes to leak into the space. If you are considering B-vent pipe you must check your local building codes to see if it is allowed. If you do an installation with B-Vent, you must inspect the pipe at least once per month for corrosion, and immediately replace any corroding ones. It's likely that the B-vent pipe will be corroded within 5 years.
Single wall or Double wall?
Single wall pipe gets very hot and typically must have 18" clearance. Double wall must have only 6" clearance. (Always verify with local code.) Stainless steel pipe is an expensive material. Double that amount in one pipe with double wall. Double wall has lot of high-grade steel, and it's 50% more expensive. We sell it; the Marey manual specs it.
If you have clearance, we are saving you a lot of money by providing the single wall pipe.
With both installations below, you must have an unlimited supply of fresh air to the room with the 10L. Otherwise, you must install a direct vent system which takes fresh air from the outside.
Notes for through wall installation
Use the supplied coupler that ships with the 10L. Next...
↔ If the total pipe length of your horizontal installation is short enough to prevent condensation, and your installer approves of the use of single wall pipe, then buy the following parts:
That's all! Total venting cost can be less than $150. You do not need a condensation drain pipe section because of the short pipe run.
Options for other installation situations:
↔ If the total pipe length of your horizontal installation is requires some vertical distance outside, then follow these instructions:
Buy two 45° elbows, plus one straight pipe no longer than 18" in length, plus one straight pipe no longer than 42" in length, plus one wind/rain cap, plus one condensation drain.
From the flue collar at the top of the water heater, attach the first 45° elbow with a vent pipe coupler. After the elbow is attached, use it as a template for cutting the hole through the wall at a 45° upward angle, with a slightly larger diameter than the pipe. Attach an 18" piece of straight pipe to the 45° elbow and insert through the hole in the wall. If your wall is more than 18" thick, use a longer pipe up to 24" and reduce the length of the second pipe to 36". Do not exceed 60" for the total vent length, unless you use a low CFM duct booster fan to ensure proper venting of the heater.
On the other side of the wall, attach the second 45° elbow so that the second pipe will run vertically, parallel with the wall. Secure the piping with galvanized steel brackets or clamps. Attach a condensation drain pipe piece on the portion of pipe located outside the structure. On top of the second piece of exhaust pipe, attach the rain/wind cap.
Notes for through the roof installation
Use the supplied coupler that ships with the 10L. Next...
Drill a hole through the ceiling and roof that is slightly larger than the vent pipe diameter. Attach the pipe to the top of the unit and go straight up and out the roof. On the roof, attach to the vent pipe a rain/wind cap. The total vertical distance from heater to rain/wind cap must not exceed 60", unless you use a low CFM duct booster fan to ensure proper venting of the heater. Roof clearance must be at least 12".
The area around the fresh air intake of the heater must be no less than 0.75 square feet (or about 9" x 12").
Below are the venting products you may need for vertical venting through the roof for the Marey 5L and 10L. As always, consult with a professional. Or, use our contractor link below.
● Universal Adapter w/Backflow Preventer & Condensate Drain, single wall.
Installation Help and Recommendations
We recommend that you have a professional tankless water heater installer review the above recommendations. Need an installer? Get 4 FREE Tankless Water Heater Installation Estimates Now. It's Quick and Easy!