Marey 16L NG/Natural Gas Tankless Water Heater, Digital/LCD Panel
The Marey 16L for Natural Gas is one of the least expensive, highest quality, tankless water heaters in its class.
Power goes out in your home? You'll still get hot water, since the 16L gets its ignition from batteries.
The GA16LNGDP saves water while consuming up to 60% less energy than conventional tank water heaters, which makes it cost-effective and environmentally friendly.
• Lasts a lifetime
Temperature increase at given hot water flow rates
Frequently Asked Questions ("FAQ")
Q1: Is there a max water temperature at the inlet connection? Would like a backup for solar water storage.
A1: There is no maximum incoming water temperature for the 16L, above which the heater will not fire. However, Marey recommends that the incoming water temperature not exceed 120°F, since such temperatures could damage the rubber diaphragm.
Q2: I've heard that the Marey 16L goes from hot to cold during use, and makes a lot of people dissatisfied with this unit. Is that true?
Q3: How often do the batteries need to be replaced?
Q4: Will this heater work if I have 3/4" water pipes?
Q5: What are the differences between the 16L and 16L ETL?
Venting Guide for Marey Heaters
Vent pipe diameters:
This is not a comprehensive, complete manual. Consult a licensed HVAC professional to install your tankless heater. Find a professional here.
Selecting the correct vent type: Stainless or galvanized?
The condensation of a tankless water heater is slightly more acidic and thus corrosive than a standard water heater's condensation. That is why many building codes in North America require Type III stainless steel, such as Z-Vent shown in the blue Related Gadgets tab above, for venting natural gas and propane tankless hot water heaters. It will never corrode or rust.
Alternatively, some building codes in North America allow for B-vent to be used. B-vent is double walled galvanized vent pipe made for standard water heaters and stove vent pipe. Unfortunately, the less expensive B-vent material will eventually corrode. This would allow dangerous fumes to leak into the space. If you are considering B-vent pipe you must check your local building codes to see if it is allowed. If you do an installation with B-Vent, you must inspect the pipe at least once per month for corrosion, and immediately replace any corroding ones. It's likely that the B-vent pipe will be corroded within 5 years.
Single wall or Double wall?
Single wall pipe gets very hot and typically must have 18" clearance. Double wall must have only 6" clearance. (Always verify with local code.) Stainless steel pipe is an expensive material. Double that amount in one pipe with double wall. Double wall has lot of high-grade steel, and it's 50% more expensive. We sell it; the Marey manual specs it.
If you have clearance, this guide will save you a lot of money with single wall pipe.
With both installations below, you must have an unlimited supply of fresh air to the room with the 16L. Otherwise, you must install a direct vent system which takes fresh air from the outside.
Note that this kit has no backflow preventer. It's ok if there is no chance that freezing air could enter into the heater through the vent pipes, and you have a wall thickness less than 7". Otherwise, see next section below.
"A la carte" individual vent pipe pieces to buy for through-wall installation for the 16L (GA16NGDP)
↔ If the total pipe length of your horizontal installation is very short, and your installer approves of the use of single wall pipe, then buy the following parts:
↔ If the total pipe length of your horizontal installation is requires some vertical distance outside, then follow these instructions:
Buy two 45° elbows, plus one straight pipe no longer than 18" in length, plus one straight pipe no longer than 42" in length, plus one wind/rain cap, plus one condensation drain.
From the flue collar at the top of the water heater, attach the first 45° elbow with a vent pipe coupler. After the elbow is attached, use it as a template for cutting the hole through the wall at a 45° upward angle, with a slightly larger diameter than the pipe. Attach an 18" piece of straight pipe to the 45° elbow and insert through the hole in the wall. If your wall is more than 18" thick, use a longer pipe up to 24" and reduce the length of the second pipe to 36". Do not exceed 60" for the total vent length, unless you use a low CFM duct booster fan to ensure proper venting of the heater.
On the other side of the wall, attach the second 45° elbow so that the second pipe will run vertically, parallel with the wall. Secure the piping with galvanized steel brackets or clamps. Attach a condensation drain pipe piece on the portion of pipe located outside the structure. On top of the second piece of exhaust pipe, attach the rain/wind cap.
Notes for through the roof installation
Drill a hole through the ceiling and roof that is slightly larger than the vent pipe diameter. Attach the pipe to the top of the unit and go straight up and out the roof. On the roof, attach to the vent pipe a rain/wind cap. The total vertical distance from heater to rain/wind cap must not exceed 60", unless you use a low CFM duct booster fan to ensure proper venting of the heater. Roof clearance must be at least 12".
The area around the fresh air intake of the heater must be no less than 0.75 square feet (or about 9" x 12").
Below are the venting products you may need for vertical venting through the roof for the Marey 16L. As always, consult with a professional. Or, use our contractor search link below.
● Universal Adapter w/Backflow Preventer & Condensate Drain, single wall.
Installation Help and Recommendations
We recommend that you have a professional tankless water heater installer review the above recommendations. Need an installer? Get 4 FREE Tankless Water Heater Installation Estimates Now. It's Quick and Easy!