A favorite heater for Canadian installations, and popular in USA too, with a powerful 110K BTU heating capacity.
• Lasts a lifetime, with up to 87% efficiency
• Rustproof, no leaks, no water loss
• Compact design saves space
• Easy installation just about anywhere
• Provides unlimited water
• Activates the moment the faucet is opened
• 5 year warranty
|Output Capacity||16 LPM / 4.5 GPM (45°F rise)|
Gas: 1/2 inch NPT
|Activation Flow Rate||0.66 GPM (2.5L/min)|
|Hot Water Delivery Capacity Max||4.2 GPM (45°F rise)
5.4 GPM (35°F rise)
|Gas Type||Natural Gas|
| Related Gas Pressure (PSI)
|Rated gas pressure||Natural Gas: 7 inch W.C. (1 740Pa)|
|Exhaust Discharge Mode||Room sealed, forced air draft flue|
|Applicable Water Pressure||1.45 PSI to 138 PSI (0.1 to 9.5 bar)|
|Ignition||Direct electronic ignition|
|DOE Energy Factor (EF Rating)
Regulation 10 CFR 430.32(d) Compliance
|Electrical Power Supply||Three-prong, grounded plug, 120V / 60 Hz|
|Dimensions||14" x 22" x 6"|
|Weight||35 lbs (16kg)|
|Max./Min. Gas Consumption||
Natural Gas: 110,000 BTU/h to 20,000 BTU/h
|Factory set output temperature option||
95°F to 149°F (35°C to 65°C)
40 ppm Max
|Water temperature control||Input and output water temperature signals|
|Water flow control||Electronic Water flow sensor|
|Safety Devices||Flame Failure: Flame rod
Boil dry: Water flow sensor / 194°F thermistor
Over temperature: 185°F (Integrated circuit system)
Pressure relief valve: Opens at 145 PSI
Fusible link: 320°F Thermal Fuse
Combustion fan RPM check: Integrated circuit system
Over current: Glass fuse (5 Amp/3 Amp)
|Remote Control Cable Optional
(not available as of 7-5-2015)
|Kitchen/Bathroom/Second Bathroom (universal, up to 3 controllers)|
|Electrical Consumption (Normal)||55W|
Temperature Increase (in °F)
Max Flow Rate
|1||100 (1 GPM)||72||2.25 GPM|
|2||90 (.75 GPM)||72||1.15|
|3||85 (.6 GPM)||72||.75|
|4||80 (.5 GPM)||72||.6|
|5||72 (.45 GPM)||72||.45|
|1||72 (1 GPM)||72||4|
|2||90 (1 GPM)||72||2|
|3||85 (1 GPM)||72||1.3|
|4||80 (.75 GPM)||72||1|
|5||72 (.65 GPM)||72||.8|
Download manual (PDF) Please note that as of 4-10-2015 the 16L ETL manual has errors for venting part numbers. However, this GadgetsGo.com product page shows the correct venting parts.
Although the manual shows a wired remote control (not required for operation), it is not available as of May 4, 2015, and Marey quotes no ETA.
The 16L ETL unit is the only gas unit offered by Marey that self-regulates the gas flow based on the desired output temperature you set, the incoming water temperature, and the water flow rate. This unit requires the least amount of water flow and water pressure to activate. It also produces the greatest temperature increase versus other Marey heaters. We recommend making the cold water inlet, hot water outlet and the gas fitting connections from your hard lines to the unit using flexible appliance hoses (e.g., Shark Bite fittings).
The 16L ETL does have a relatively low band of applicable gas pressure. We recommend getting as close to the specifications as possible. Natural gas requires 7 inches of Water Column (0.25 PSI).
Venting Guide for Marey Heaters
This is not a comprehensive, complete manual. Consult a licensed HVAC professional to install your tankless heater. Find a professional here.
This is a sealed combustion unit. This unit draws in oxygen from the fresh air intake vent opening located on the top right side of the unit. This fresh air intake can be vented from the exterior of the home using 3" diameter PVC. The forced exhaust is located on the left side of the unit and it is also a 3" diameter vent opening. NEVER restrict venting down to a smaller size. The forced exhaust also makes it possible to install a backflow damper (or preventer) which prevents cold air from traveling down the venting and potentially freezing the water that is stored in the unit at all times.
Selecting the correct vent type: Stainless or galvanized?
The condensation of a tankless water heater is slightly more acidic and thus corrosive than a standard water heater's condensation. That is why many building codes in North America require Type III stainless steel, such as Z-Vent shown in the blue Related Gadgets tab above, for venting natural gas and propane tankless hot water heaters. It will never corrode or rust.
Alternatively, some building codes in North America allow for B-vent to be used. B-vent is double walled galvanized vent pipe made for standard water heaters and stove vent pipe. Unfortunately, the less expensive B-vent material will eventually corrode. This would allow dangerous fumes to leak into the space. If you are considering B-vent pipe you must check your local building codes to see if it is allowed. If you do an installation with B-Vent, you must inspect the pipe at least once per month for corrosion, and immediately replace any corroding ones. It's likely that the B-vent pipe will be corroded within 5 years.
Single wall or Double wall?
Single wall pipe gets very hot and typically must have 18" clearance. Double wall must have only 6" clearance. (Always verify with local code.) Stainless steel pipe is an expensive material. Double that amount in one pipe with double wall. Double wall has lot of high-grade steel, and it's 50% more expensive. We sell it; the Marey manual specs it.
If you have clearance, we are saving you a lot of money by providing the single wall pipe.
Notes for through wall installation. Links to the parts are in the text and blue Related Gadgets tab above.
Marey includes a coupler that slides onto the top of the flue of the 16L ETL. Next...
↔ If the total pipe length of your horizontal venting installation is very short, then buy the following parts:
● If the distance from the back of the 16L ETL, where it would mount and touch the wall to the outside side of the wall, is more than 4.5", then add the appropriate piece of 3" diameter straight pipe (such as the 6" or 12" length).
● Does the room have an unlimited supply of free-flowing fresh air? If so, the parts above are all you need (but review with a licensed professional). If not, then vent in fresh air from outdoors using some 1 Ply Flexible Aluminum Duct, 3".
● Does the wall that you are going through contain combustible materials? If so, add a 3" Wall Thimble.
● Is the total pipe length longer than 5'? Then add a condensation drain pipe section.
↔ If the total pipe length of your horizontal installation is requires some vertical distance outside, then follow these instructions:
Buy two 45° elbows, plus one straight pipe no longer than 18" in length, plus one straight pipe no longer than 42" in length, plus one wind/rain cap, plus one condensation drain pipe.
From the flue collar at the top of the water heater, attach the first 45° elbow with a vent pipe coupler. After the elbow is attached, use it as a template for cutting the hole through the wall. Cut at a 45° upward angle, with a slightly larger diameter than the pipe. Attach an 18" piece of straight pipe to the 45° elbow and insert through the hole in the wall. If your wall is more than 18" thick, use a longer pipe up to 24" and reduce the length of the second pipe to 36". Do not exceed 60" for the total vent length, unless you use a low CFM duct booster fan to ensure proper venting of the heater.
On the other side of the wall, attach the second 45° elbow so that the second pipe will run parallel with the wall. Secure the piping with galvanized steel brackets or clamps. On top of the second piece of exhaust pipe, attach the rain/wind cap. Attach a condensation drain on the portion of pipe located outside the structure.
Notes for through the roof installation. Links to the parts are in the text and blue Related Gadgets tab above.
Marey includes a coupler that slides onto the top of the flue of the 16L ETL. Next...
Buy one piece of straight pipe no longer than 60", plus a wind/rain cap, plus a condensation drain. For the 16L, attach the pipe directly to the flue collar at the top of the heater. For the 5L and 10L, use the supplied coupler.
Drill a hole through the ceiling and roof that is slightly larger than the vent pipe diameter. Attach the pipe to the top of the unit and go straight up and out the roof. On the roof, attach to the vent pipe a rain/wind cap. The total vertical distance from heater to rain/wind cap must not exceed 60", unless you use a low CFM duct booster fan to ensure proper venting of the heater. Roof clearance must be at least 12".
The area around the fresh air intake of the heater must be no less than 0.75 square feet (or about 9" x 12").
Below are the venting products you may need for vertical venting through the roof for the Marey 16L ETL. As always, consult with a professional. Or, use our installation contractor link below.
● Z-Flex 3" Universal Appliance Adapter with Damper
● Your choice of your installation's correct height/length of Z-Flex Pipe 3" diameter pipe, If you are not sure of the exact length up to 18", choose the Adjustable 18" Pipe on that page.
● Z-Flex Flat roof flashing
● Z-Flex 0 to 30 degree pitch roof flashing
● Z-Flex Storm collar
● Z-Flex Rain cap with wind band
● If the room does not have an unlimited supply of free-flowing fresh air, then add a fresh air intake from outdoors using the appropriate length of 1 Ply Flexible Aluminum Duct, 3".
Frequently Asked Question (FAQ)
Q1: What is the size of the water and gas connection?
A1: The water connection is 1/2" NPT. If you have existing 3/4" pipe, you can use a common adapter fitting on the heater. The gas connection is 1/2".
Q2: I turned on the hot water handle. Hot water comes out. Then I turned on the cold water and the hot water stopped coming out.
A2: Marey confirms that you are not the only one who has experienced this. The 16L unit does not have a manufacturing defect. The simple reason is that when you turn on the cold water, the hot water flow to the unit drops below the minimum 0.25 GPM flow rate. In other words, your output flow rate remains the same whether you just have the hot water flowing, or mixing in cold water. But when you mix in cold water, the hot water flow rate is reduced.
Solutions: 1. Turn down the output hot water setting on the front of the unit. Or, 2. Install a water pressure booster before the hot water heater.
Q3: What are the differences between the 16L and 16L ETL?
A3: The units are similar, but different in many ways.
≈ 16L has a battery ignition. 16L ETL has ignition powered by 110v electrical power cord.
≈ The 16L uses 5" exhaust venting. The 16L ETL uses 3" exhaust venting, and has a separate fresh air intake vent pipe.
≈ The 16L has naturally drafted exhaust. The 16L ETL has a fan blower that forces the exhaust out through the venting pipes.≈ The 16L has either standard dial water and gas flow controls on the front of the unit, or an optional digital panel. The 16L ETL uses only a digital panel.
≈ The 16L ETL has the ETL safety certification. This safety certification is widely accepted throughout the United States by plumber, contractors, and building inspectors. Here is more detailed information about the ETL listing.≈ The 16L ETL has a higher BTU and a much higher water heating capacity. Please check the temperature rise charts shown above.
≈ The 16L ETL weighs more.
≈ The 16L ETL has a few new sensors to regulate temperature.
Q4: On page 45 of the manual, it states, "2SVSNA03.5 with AL-V0303B above". And below that is "ALV303B" and "AL-V0304A". What are they?
A4: According to Sam in Marey tech support, they are obsolete items that were in the manual when Marey acquired the rights to sell this unit. They are no longer needed and you can disregard them.
Installation Help and Recommendations
We recommend that you have a professional tankless water heater installer review the above recommendations. Need an installer? Get 4 FREE Tankless Water Heater Installation Estimates Now. It's Quick and Easy!
Contractors: Get Targeted Consumer Leads in Your Area Now.
Contractors: Apply for Wholesale Pricing from GadgetsGo.com.